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	<title>cameraworks &#187; Technical</title>
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	<link>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz</link>
	<description>             HD Camera Rentals &#38; Sales</description>
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		<title>Sony RAW Viewer v2.1</title>
		<link>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/sony-raw-viewer-v2-1/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/sony-raw-viewer-v2-1/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 28 Dec 2013 22:14:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Technical]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?p=5160</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[http://www.sonycreativesoftware.com/rawviewer/download Create 1D/3D LUTS LUTs are created in raw viewer V2.1 using the clip &#8220;Input Settings&#8221;. Only the input settings do anything. Once you have the look you want you...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2 style="color: #ff3300;"><a href="http://www.sonycreativesoftware.com/rawviewer/download">http://www.sonycreativesoftware.com/rawviewer/download</a></h2>
<p><span id="more-5160"></span></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Create 1D/3D LUTS</strong></li>
<li>LUTs are created in raw viewer V2.1 using the clip &#8220;Input Settings&#8221;. Only the input settings do anything. Once you have the look you want you use the &#8220;save as&#8221; button next to &#8220;parameter control&#8221; to save the LUT as a camera LUT. Then place this on an SD card. Put the SD card in the camera and go to the &#8220;File&#8221; menu to import the LUT to the cameras user LUT memories.</li>
</ul>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><a id="js-image-link" href="http://www.sonycreativesoftware.com/images/downloads/screenshots/rawviewer-01-large.jpg"> </a></p>
<div><img src="http://www.sonycreativesoftware.com/images/downloads/screenshots/rawviewer-01.jpg" alt="" width="50" height="31" /> <img src="http://www.sonycreativesoftware.com/images/downloads/screenshots/rawviewer-02.jpg" alt="" width="50" height="28" /></div>
<div>
<div><strong>RAW Viewer</strong> WINMAC</div>
<div>RAW Viewer is a viewer  application that can handle SONY RAW File recorded by  F65/F55/F5/NEX-FS700 with SR-R4/AXS-R5. Users can check and playback the  files, control images and generate several video formats.</div>
</div>
<div>
<h2>Applicable Products</h2>
<div>
<h3>CineAlta Camera Series</h3>
<ul>
<li>F65</li>
<li>PMW-F55/F5</li>
<li>SR-R4</li>
<li>AXS-R5</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
<h3>NXCAM Series</h3>
<ul>
<li>NEX-FS700</li>
<li>NEX-FS700R</li>
<li>HXR-IFR5</li>
</ul>
<h2>Features</h2>
<div>
<h3>Viewing Clips</h3>
<ul>
<li>Display and playback clips</li>
<li>View and edit a metadata</li>
<li>Flip images</li>
<li>De-Anamorphic (1.3x, 2.0x) images shot by Anamorphic lenses</li>
<li>Setting  selectable resolution, 8K*, 6K*, 4K(Quality), 4K(Speed), 2K(Qality),  2K(Speed), 1K, and 0.5K. *only F65RAW-SQ and F65RAW-Lite</li>
<li>Zooming and pixel by pixel displaying.</li>
<li>Waveform and Histogram function</li>
<li>effective marker setting</li>
<li>Navigator display</li>
<li>Display Timecode and Duration</li>
<li>input In and Out points</li>
<li>Poster Frame setting</li>
<li>Selectable GPU/CPU setting and supporting Multi GPU decoding</li>
</ul>
<h3>Generate Video and Audio formats</h3>
<ul>
<li>Generate several video and Audio <a href="http://www.sonycreativesoftware.com/rawviewer/fileformats">formats</a> (DPX, Open EXR, SStP, ProRes* and BWF (Audio)) *Mac only</li>
<li>Trim original RAW files</li>
<li>Save and Load parameter template</li>
<li>selectable creating sub folder</li>
<li>email notification about the status of tasks</li>
<li>Selectable processing algorithm, Quality priority or Speed priority</li>
<li>scaling for generated files (Letter Box, Center Crop, De-ana 2.0x and De-ana 1.3x)</li>
<li>selectable bit depth (DPX:10 or 16bit, Open EXR: 16 or 32 bit, SStP: 10 or 12 bit, ProRes: 10 or 12 bit)</li>
<li>Flip images vertically or horizontally</li>
<li>selecting audio channel</li>
<li>importing EDL and processing</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
<h3>Look control</h3>
<ul>
<li>Setting workspace</li>
<li>Save and Load parameter template</li>
<li>Export 3DLUT, ASC-CDL for other tools and Camera LUT for F65</li>
<li>Control Exposure</li>
<li>Control Linear Gain (Printer light control)</li>
<li>Control color temperature (2000-15000)</li>
<li>Control color barance (Tint) (-1.00-+1.00)</li>
<li>Selecable color space, REC709, S-Gaamut, ACES, Look Profile and User 3D LUT</li>
<li>SelectableTone curve* *only REC709 and S-Gamut color space</li>
<li>Control Tone curve</li>
<li>support and control ASC-CDL by color circles and parameters</li>
<li>Selectable Monitor LUT</li>
<li>Preset ACES ODT</li>
<li>Import User 3DLUT and 1DULT</li>
<li>Control HDLink series from Black Magic Design</li>
</ul>
<h3>SDI output by UltraStudio series</h3>
<p>RAW  Viewer V2.0 supports Monitor Out Device “UltraStudio” series which are  released from Black Magic Design. This function allow you to output HD  and QFHD* signals to monitors and control each materials correctively. *  UltraStudio 4K only</p>
<h3>Look control by Tracker balls panel</h3>
<p>Connected  element-Tk tacker balls panel which is released from Tangent wave to  computer via USB allow you to control color sircles and other parameters  intuitively on RAW Viewer 2.0.</p>
</div>
<div>
<h3>Other functions</h3>
</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Task queue<br />
The  Task Queue displays a list of tasks registered. In addition, users can  control tasks such as PAUSE, ABORT and REARRANGING the order of tasks.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Salvage function<br />
RAW Viewer V2.0 has salvage function for RAW files which are shot by AXS-R5* and ASX Memory cards. * Version 2.0 and later</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Check MD5 an SRSum<br />
RAW  Viewer V2.0 has Generating MD5 and checking MD5 functions. And it can  check SRSum which has generated by SR-PC4 and SRPC-5 for SRMemoris.</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<h2><a name="system_requirements"></a>System Requirements</h2>
</div>
<div>
<h3>Microsoft Windows</h3>
<ul>
<li>Microsoft Windows 7 SP1 64bit</li>
<li>Microsoft Windows 8 64bit</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
<h3>Mac OS X</h3>
<ul>
<li>Mac OS X Lion (10.7) 64bit</li>
<li>Mac OS X Mountain Lion (10.8) 64bit</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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		<title>Sony F5/F55 WiFi set up</title>
		<link>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/sony-f5f55-wifi-set-up/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/sony-f5f55-wifi-set-up/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 28 Dec 2013 21:59:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Technical]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?p=5148</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[LINK:     F5/F55 WiFi video Credit:   Shift4 Ltd]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2 style="color: #ff3300; text-decoration: underline;"><a style="text-decoration: none;" href="http://youtu.be/sd-xCxpaoIo">LINK:     F5/F55 WiFi video</a></h2>
<p><strong><span id="more-5148"></span>Credit:   Shift4 Ltd</strong></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Brewing up a Scene File: Gamma and Knee:</title>
		<link>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/brewing-up-a-scene-file-gamma-and-knee/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/brewing-up-a-scene-file-gamma-and-knee/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jul 2012 12:18:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Technical]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?p=3298</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Link:  http://www.xdcam-user.com/2010/03/br&#8230;amma-and-knee/ Brewing up a Scene File: Gamma and Knee Posted on March 1, 2010 by alisterchapman Brewing up a Scene File: Gamma and Knee Before anyone complains that I...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><span id="more-3298"></span></strong></p>
<p style="color: #ff3300;"><strong>Link:  <a href="http://www.xdcam-user.com/2010/03/brewing-up-a-scene-file-gamma-and-knee/" target="_blank">http://www.xdcam-user.com/2010/03/br&#8230;amma-and-knee/</a></strong></p>
<h1>Brewing up a Scene File: Gamma and Knee</h1>
<div>Posted on <a title="3:02 pm" rel="bookmark" href="http://www.xdcam-user.com/2010/03/brewing-up-a-scene-file-gamma-and-knee/">March 1, 2010</a> by <a title="View all posts by alisterchapman" href="http://www.xdcam-user.com/author/alisterchapman/">alisterchapman</a></div>
<div>
<p>Brewing up a Scene File: Gamma and Knee</p>
<p>Before anyone complains that I have missed stuff out or that some  technical detail is not quite right, one of the things I’m trying to do  here is simplify the hows and why’s to try and make it easier for the  less technical people out there. Lets face it this is an art form, not a  science (well actually a bit of both really).<br />
So what is a gamma curve anyway? Well the good old fashioned cathode ray  tube television was a very non-linear device. You put 1 unit of power  in and get one unit of light out. You put 2 units in and get 1.5 units  out, put 3 in and get 2 out… and so on. So in order to get a natural  picture the output of the camera also has to be modified to compensate  for this. This compensation is the gamma curve, an artificial  modification of the output signal from the camera to make it match TV’s  and monitors around the world. See Wikipedia for a fuller  explaination:   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gamma_correction<br />
So, all video cameras will have a gamma curve, whether you can adjust it  or not is another matter. Certainly most pro level cameras allow you  some form of gamma adjustment.<br />
The PMW-350 has 6 standard gamma curves, these are all pretty similar,  they have to be otherwise the pictures wouldn’t look right, but small  changes in the curve effect the relationship between dark and bright  parts of the pictures. Todays modern cameras have a far greater dynamic  range (range of dark to bright) than older cameras. This means that the  full dynamic range of the sensor no longer fits within the gamma curves  used for TV’s and monitors. In broadcast television any signal that goes  over 100% gets clipped off and is discarded, so the cameras entire  brightness range has to be squeezed into 0 to 100%. The PMW-350 sensors  are capable of far more than this (at least 600%) so what can you do?<br />
The older and simpler solution is called the “Knee”. The knee works  because in most cases the brightest parts of a scene contains little  detail and is generally ignored by our brains. We humans tend to focus  on mid-tone faces, animals and plants rather than the bright sky.  Because of this you can compress the highlights (bright) parts of the  picture quite heavily without it looking hugely un-natural (most of the  time at least). What the knee does is takes a standard gamma curve and  up near it’s top, bends it over. This has the effect of compressing the  brighter parts of the image, squashing a broad range of highlights  (clouds for example) into a narrow range of brightness. While this works  fairly well, it does tend to look rather “electronic” as the picture is  either natural (below the knee) or compressed (above the knee).<br />
The answer to this electronic video look is to replace the hard knee  with gentle bend to the gamma curve. This bend starts some way down the  gamma curve, very gentle at first but getting harder and harder as you  go up the gamma curve. This has the effect of compressing the image  gently at first with the compression getting stronger and stronger as  you go up the curve. This looks a lot more natural than a hard knee and  is far closer to the way film handles highlights. The downside is that  because the compression starts earlier a wider tonal range is  compressed. This makes the pictures look flat and uninteresting. You  have to watch exposure on faces as these can creep into the compressed  part of the curve. The plus point is that it’s possible to squeeze large  amounts of latitude into the 100% video range. This video can then be  worked on in post production by the editor or colorist who can pull out  the tonal range that best suits the production.<br />
These compressed gamma curves are given different names on different  products. Panasonic call them “Film Rec”, on the EX1 they are  “Cinegammas” on the PMW-350 they are “Hypergammas”. The 350 has four  Hypergammas. The first is 3250. this takes a brightness range the  equivalent to 325% and compresses it down to 100%. HG 4600 takes 460%  and squeezes that down to 100%. Both of these Hypergammas are “broadcast  safe” and the recordings made with them can be broadcast straight from  the camera without any issues. The next Hypergamma is 3259. This takes a  325% range and squeezes this down to a 109% range, likewise 4609 takes  460% down to 109%. But why 109%? well the extra 9% gives you almost 10%  more data to work with in post production compared to broadcast safe  100%. It also gives you the peak white level you need for display on the  internet. Of course if you are doing a broadcast show you will need to  ensure that the video levels in the finished programme don’t exceed  100%.<br />
My preferred gamma is Hypergamma 4 (4609) as this gives the maximum  dynamic range and gives a natural look, however the pictures can look a  little flat so if I’m going direct from the camera to finished video  without grading I use either a standard gamma or use the Black Gamma  function to modify the curve. I’ll explain the Black Gamma in my next  post.<br />
There are 6 standard gammas to choose from. I like to stick with gamma 5  which is the ITU-709 HD standard gamma. To increase the dynamic range I  use the Knee. The default knee point setting is 90, this is a  reasonable setting, but if your shooting with clipping set to 100% you  are not getting all the cameras latitude (the Knee at 90 works very well  with clipping at 108%). Lowering the knee down to 83 gives you almost  another stop of latitude, but you have to be careful as skin tones and  faces can creep up towards 83%. It’s very noticeable if skin becomes  compressed so you need to watch your exposure. This is also true of the  Hypergammas and with them you may need to underexpose faces very  slightly. The other option is to set the knee point to 88 and then also  adjust the knee slope. The slope is the compression amount. A positive  value is more compressed, negative less compressed. With the knee at 88  and slope set to +20 you get good latitude, albeit with quite highly  compressed highlights.<br />
If you want to play with the gammas and knee and see how they work one  method you can use is to use a paint package on your PC (such as  photoshop) to create a full screen left to right graduated image going  from Black to white. Then shoot this with the camera (slightly out of  focus) while making adjustments to the curves or knee and record the  results along with a vocal description of each setting. Import the clips  into your favorite editing package and use the waveform monitor or  scopes you should be able to see a reasonable representation of the  shape of the gamma curve and knee.<br />
So my Gamma Choices are:<br />
For material that will be post produced: Hypergamma 4609 (HG4)<br />
For material that will be used straight from the camera: Standard Gamma 5  Knee at 90 with clip at 108% for non broadcast or Knee at 88 with slope  +20 with white clip at 100% for direct to broadcast.</p>
</div>
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		<title>S-Log or Hypergamma with the PMW-F3</title>
		<link>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/s-log-or-hypergamma-with-the-pmw-f3/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/s-log-or-hypergamma-with-the-pmw-f3/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jul 2012 12:11:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Technical]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?p=3294</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[link: http://www.xdcam-user.com/2010/11/s-&#8230;th-the-pmw-f3/ S-Log or Hypergamma with the PMW-F3 Posted on November 13, 2010 by alisterchapman The new Sony PMW-F3 can record using normal standard gammas and hypergammas, which compress highlights...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h1 style="font-size: 14px;"><span id="more-3294"></span>link: <a href="http://www.xdcam-user.com/2010/11/s-log-or-hypergamma-with-the-pmw-f3/" target="_blank">http://www.xdcam-user.com/2010/11/s-&#8230;th-the-pmw-f3/</a></h1>
<h1>S-Log or Hypergamma with the PMW-F3</h1>
<div>Posted on <a title="3:34 pm" rel="bookmark" href="http://www.xdcam-user.com/2010/11/s-log-or-hypergamma-with-the-pmw-f3/">November 13, 2010</a> by <a title="View all posts by alisterchapman" href="http://www.xdcam-user.com/author/alisterchapman/">alisterchapman</a></div>
<div>
<p>The new Sony PMW-F3 can record using normal standard gammas and  hypergammas, which compress highlights and increase the dynamic range  to 460% and S-Log which is, as it’s name suggests an “S” shaped  logarithmic gamma curve that compresses both highlights and lowlights  giving upto 800% dynamic range. However the noise figures given by Sony  are very different for S-Log and Hypergammas.</p>
<p>It will be interesting to see what the ramifications of the F3?s,  63db noise figure using standard gammas and hypergammas, vs the 57db nf  using S-Log.</p>
<p>S-Log on the F3 will give you almost an extra stop of dynamic range  but doubles the amount of noise. In most grading situations noise is the  defining factor as to how far you can push the image in post. With  normal gammas, at 57db the noise level is at the point where 10 bit  recording brings little advantage as the noise is still around the  minimum sample size. But S-Log is different as the distribution of data  across the gamma curve is not linear, you must have 10bit recording for  S-Log to work correctly. With the standard gammas at 63db there will be a  definite advantage to recording 10bit.</p>
<p>The noise behaviour suggests that the true zero point noise level for  the F3 is 57db, but that for “normal” use, due to the sensors very  large dynamic range I suspect that Sony have chosen to reduced the gain  by 6db, thus reducing both the noise and dynamic range. In effect the  camera is operating with -6db gain switched in as default. However the  sensor is sensitive enough to still give excellent low light performance  despite the reduced gain and has more than enough dynamic range to  still give the 11 stops that can be recorded with Hypergammas. This  points to excellent low light performance as with +6db of gain switched  in (with standard or hypergammas) your still going to have a 57db noise  figure and at +9db gain it should have about the same amount of noise as  an EX1 at 0db! Ah.. the delight of big pixels.</p>
</div>
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		<title>When should I use a Cinegamma or Hypergamma?</title>
		<link>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/when-should-i-use-a-cinegamma-or-hypergamma/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/when-should-i-use-a-cinegamma-or-hypergamma/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jul 2012 12:05:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Technical]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?p=3290</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[When should I use a Cinegamma or Hypergamma? http://www.xdcam-user.com/2011/01/wh&#8230;or-hypergamma/ Credit to Alaster Chapman: When should I use a Cinegamma or Hypergamma? Posted on January 24, 2011 by alisterchapman Cinegammas are...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span id="more-3290"></span>When should I use a Cinegamma or Hypergamma?<br />
<a href="http://www.xdcam-user.com/2011/01/when-should-i-use-a-cinegamma-or-hypergamma/" target="_blank">http://www.xdcam-user.com/2011/01/wh&#8230;or-hypergamma/</a></p>
<p><strong>Credit to Alaster Chapman:</strong></p>
<h1>When should I use a Cinegamma or Hypergamma?</h1>
<div>Posted on <a title="3:28 pm" rel="bookmark" href="http://www.xdcam-user.com/2011/01/when-should-i-use-a-cinegamma-or-hypergamma/">January 24, 2011</a> by <a title="View all posts by alisterchapman" href="http://www.xdcam-user.com/author/alisterchapman/">alisterchapman</a></div>
<div>
<p>Cinegammas are designed to be graded. The shape of the curve  with steadily increasing compression from around 65-70% upwards tends to  lead to a flat looking image, but maximises the cameras latitude  (although similar can be achieved with a standard gamma and careful knee  setting). The beauty of the cinegammas is that the gentle onset of the  highlight compression means that grading will be able to extract a more  natural image from the highlights. Note than Cinegamma 2 is broadcast  safe and has slightly reduced recording range than CG 1,3 and 4.</p>
<p>Standard gammas will give a more natural looking picture right up to  the point where the knee kicks in. From there up the signal is heavily  compressed, so trying to extract subtle textures from highlights in post  is difficult. The issue with standard gammas and the knee is that the  image is either heavily compressed or not, there’s no middle ground.</p>
<p>In a perfect world you would control your lighting (turning down the  sun if necessary ;-o) so that you could use standard gamma 3 (ITU 709  standard HD gamma) with no knee. Everything would be linear and nothing  blown out. This would equate to a roughly 7 stop range. This nice linear  signal would grade very well and give you a fantastic result. Careful  use of graduated filters or studio lighting might still allow you to do  this, but the real world is rarely restricted to a 7 stop brightness  range. So we must use the knee or Cinegamma to prevent our highlights  from looking ugly.</p>
<p>If you are committed to a workflow that will include grading, then  Cinegammas are best. If you use them be very careful with your exposure,  you don’t want to overexpose, especially where faces are involved.  getting the exposure just right with cinegammas is harder than with  standard gammas. If anything err on the side of caution and come down  1/2 a stop.</p>
<p>If your workflow might not include grading then stick to the standard  gammas. They are a little more tolerant of slight over exposure because  skin and foliage won’t get compressed until it gets up to the 80% mark  (depending on your knee setting). Plus the image looks nicer straight  out of the camera as the cameras gamma should be a close match to the  monitors gamma.</p>
</div>
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		<title>Understanding Gamma, Cinegamma, Hypergamma and S-Log.</title>
		<link>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/understanding-gamma-cinegamma-hypergamma-and-s-log/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/understanding-gamma-cinegamma-hypergamma-and-s-log/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jul 2012 12:02:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Technical]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?p=3286</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Link: http://www.xdcam-user.com/2011/01/un&#8230;mma-and-s-log/ Credit to Alaster Chapman: Understanding Gamma, Cinegamma, Hypergamma and S-Log Posted on January 21, 2011 by alisterchapman Standard Gamma Curve The graph to the left shows and idealised,...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Link: <a href="http://www.xdcam-user.com/2011/01/understanding-gamma-cinegamma-hypergamma-and-s-log/" target="_blank">http://www.xdcam-user.com/2011/01/un&#8230;mma-and-s-log/</a></strong></p>
<p><strong>Credit to Alaster Chapman:</strong></p>
<h1 style="font-size: 14px;">Understanding Gamma, Cinegamma, Hypergamma and S-Log</h1>
<div>Posted on <a title="3:02 pm" rel="bookmark" href="http://www.xdcam-user.com/2011/01/understanding-gamma-cinegamma-hypergamma-and-s-log/">January 21, 2011</a> by <a title="View all posts by alisterchapman" href="http://www.xdcam-user.com/author/alisterchapman/">alisterchapman</a></div>
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<p><strong><br />
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<div id="attachment_27"><a rel="attachment wp-att-27" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/sales/vect-equipment/attachment/22-autosave/"><img title="curves1" src="http://www.xdcam-user.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/curves1-300x216.gif" alt="" width="300" height="216" /></a>Standard Gamma Curve</p>
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<p>The graph to the left shows and idealised, normal <strong>gamma</strong> curve for a video production chain. The main thing to observe is that  the curve is in fact pretty close to a straight line (actual <strong>gamma</strong> <strong>curves</strong> are very gentle, slight <strong>curves</strong>).  This is important as what that means is that when the filmed scene gets  twice as bright the output shown on the display also appears twice as  bright, so the image we see on the display looks natural and normal.  This is the type of <strong>gamma</strong> curve that would often be referred to as a standard <strong>gamma</strong> and it is very much what you see is what you get. In reality there are small variations of these standard <strong>gamma</strong> <strong>curves</strong> designed to suit different television standards, but those slight  variations only make a small difference to the final viewed image.  Standard gammas are typically restricted to around a 7 stop exposure  range. These days this limited range is not so much to do with the  lattitude of the camera but by the inability of most monitors and TV  display systems to accurately reproduce more than a 7 stop range and to  ensure that all viewers whether they have 20 year old TV or an ultra  modern display get a sensible looking picture. This means that we have a  problem. Modern cameras can capture great brightness ranges, helping  the video maker or cinematographer capture high contrast scenes, but  simply taking a 12 stop scene and showing it on a 7 stop display isn’t  going to work. This is where modified <strong>gamma</strong> <strong>curves</strong> come in to play.</p>
<div id="attachment_28"><a rel="attachment wp-att-28" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/sales/vect-equipment/attachment/22-revision-4/"><img title="curves2" src="http://www.xdcam-user.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/curves2-300x216.gif" alt="" width="300" height="216" /></a>Standard Gamma Curve and Cinegamma Curve</p>
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<p>The second graph here shows a modified type of <strong>gamma</strong> curve. This is similar to the hypergamma or cinegamma <strong>curves</strong> found on many professional camcorders. What does the graph tell us?  Well first of all we can see that the range of brightness or lattitude  is greater as the curve extends out towards a range of 10 T stops  compared to the 7 stops the standard <strong>gamma</strong> offers. Each additional stop is a doubling of lattitude. This means that a camera set up with this type of <strong>gamma</strong> curve can <em>capture</em> a far greater contrast range, but it’s not quite as simple as that.</p>
<p>Un-natural image response area</p>
<div id="attachment_30"><a rel="attachment wp-att-30" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=30"><img title="curves3" src="http://www.xdcam-user.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/curves3-300x216.gif" alt="" width="300" height="216" /></a>Un-natural response</p>
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<p>Look at the area shaded red on the graph. This is the area where the cameras capture <strong>gamma</strong> curve deviates from the standard <strong>gamma</strong> curve used not just for image capture but also for image display. What  this means is that the area of the image shaded in red will not look  natural because where something in that part of the filmed scene gets  100% brighter it will only be displayed as getting 50% brighter for  example. In practice what this means is that while you are capturing a  greater brightness range you will also need to grade or correct this  range somewhat in the post production process to make the image look  natural. Generally scenes shot using hypergammas or cinegammas can look a  little washed out or flat. Cinegammas and Hypergammas keep the  important central exposure range nice an linear, so the region from  black up to around 75% is much like a standard <strong>gamma</strong> curve, so faces, skin, flora and fauna tend to have a natural contrast  range, it is only really highlights such as the sky that is getting  compressed and we don’t tend to notice this much in the end picture.  This is because our visual system is very good at discerning fine detail  in shadow and mid tones but less accurate in highlights, so we tend not  to find this high light compression objectionable.</p>
<p>S-Log <strong>Gamma</strong> Curve</p>
<div id="attachment_29"><a rel="attachment wp-att-29" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/sales/vect-equipment/attachment/22-revision-5/"><img title="curves4" src="http://www.xdcam-user.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/curves4-300x216.gif" alt="" width="300" height="216" /></a>S-Log Gamma Curve</p>
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<p>Taking things a step further this  even more extreme <strong>gamma</strong> curve is similar to Sony’s S-Log <strong>gamma</strong> curve. As you can see this deviates greatly from the standard <strong>gamma</strong> curve. Now the entire linear output of the sensor is sampled using a  logarithmic scale. This allows more of the data to be allocated to the  shadows and midtones where the eye is most sensitive. The end result is a  huge improvement in the recorded dynamic range (greater than 12 stops)  combined with less data being used for highlights and more being used  where it counts. However, the image when viewed on a standard monitor  with no correction that looks very washed out, lacks contrast and  generally looks incredibly flat and uninteresting.</p>
<div id="attachment_33"><a rel="attachment wp-att-33" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=33"><img title="curves5" src="http://www.xdcam-user.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/curves5-300x216.gif" alt="" width="300" height="216" /></a>S-Log Looks Flat and Washed Out</p>
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<p>Red area indicates where image will not look natural with S-Log without LUT</p>
<p>In fact the uncorrected image is so flat and washed out that it can  make judging the optimum exposure difficult and crews using S-Log will  often use traditional light meters to set the exposure rather than a  monitor or rely on zebras and known references such as grey cards. For  on set monitoring with S-Log you need to apply a LUT (look Up Table) to  the cameras output. A LUT is in effect a reverse <strong>gamma</strong> curve that cancels out the S-Log curve so that the image you see on the monitor is closer to a standard <strong>gamma</strong> image or your desired final pictures. The problem with this though is  that the monitor is now no longer showing the full contrast range being  captured and recorded so accurate exposure assessment can be tricky as  you may want to bias your exposure range towards light or dark depending  on how you will grade the final production. In addition because you  absolutely must adjust the image in post production quite heavily to get  an acceptable and pleasing image it is vital that the recording method  is up to the job. Highly compressed 8 bit codecs are not good enough for  S-Log. That’s why S-Log is normally recorded using 10 bit 4:4:4 with  very low compression ratios. Any compression artefacts can become  exaggerated when the image is manipulated and pushed and pulled in the  grade to give a pleasing image. You could use 4:2:2 10 bit at a push,  but the chroma sub sampling may lead to banding in highly saturated  areas, really Hypergammas and Cinegammas are better suited to 4:2:2 and  S-Log is best reserved for 4:4:4.</p>
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		<title>Adding LUT&#8217;s to Log Footage in FCP, Avid,Premiere and Resolve</title>
		<link>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/adding-luts-to-log-footage-in-fcp-avidpremiere-and-resolve/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/adding-luts-to-log-footage-in-fcp-avidpremiere-and-resolve/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jul 2012 11:48:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Technical]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?p=3277</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Link: http://blog.abelcine.com/2012/06/21/applying-luts-to-log-footage-in-fcp-premiere-avid-and-resolve/ &#160; &#160; Applying LUTs to Log Footage in FCP, Premiere, Avid and Resolve Originally posted by Andy Shipsides, Abelcine ,USA. Working with Log material can be difficult at...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="color: #ff3300;"><strong><span id="more-3277"></span>Link: <a href="http://blog.abelcine.com/2012/06/21/applying-luts-to-log-footage-in-fcp-premiere-avid-and-resolve/">http://blog.abelcine.com/2012/06/21/applying-luts-to-log-footage-in-fcp-premiere-avid-and-resolve/</a></strong></p>
<p style="color: #ff3300;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style="color: #ff3300;">&nbsp;</p>
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<div><strong><a title="Permanent Link to Applying LUTs to Log Footage in FCP, Premiere, Avid and Resolve" rel="bookmark" href="http://blog.abelcine.com/2012/06/21/applying-luts-to-log-footage-in-fcp-premiere-avid-and-resolve/">Applying LUTs to Log Footage in FCP, Premiere, Avid and Resolve</a></strong></div>
<div>Originally posted by <a title="Posts by Andy Shipsides" rel="author" href="http://blog.abelcine.com/author/andy-shipsides/">Andy Shipsides</a>, Abelcine ,USA.</div>
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<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18489" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18489"><img title="PomfortXwithLUT" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/PomfortXwithLUT.png" alt="" width="559" height="281" /></a></p>
<p>Working with Log material can be difficult at times, so we have put  out a couple of different LUTs for use when using the Sony F3′s S-Log or  Canon Log from the Canon C300. You can download the F3 LUTs <a href="http://blog.abelcine.com/2012/03/27/s-log-and-the-f3-%E2%80%93-part-5-3d-look-up-tables/">here</a> and the C300 LUTs <a href="http://blog.abelcine.com/2012/05/16/canon-c300-log-luts-and-more-scene-files/">here</a>, as many of you have already done. Arri has their online <a href="http://www.arri.de/camera/digital_cameras/tools/lut_generator/lut_generator.html" target="_blank">LUT Generator</a>, and the Technicolor <a href="http://www.technicolor.com/en/hi/theatrical/visual-post-production/digital-printer-lights/cinestyle" target="_blank">CineStyle LUTs</a> are available when using the CineStyle profile on the 5D Mark II.</p>
<p>We are often asked how to use these LUTs and work with Log in  general, so I have put together some methods for using LUTs and other  plugins to work with Log footage in different NLEs. There are a lot of  great programs available that make this process very easy, like <a href="http://www.abelcine.com/store/ASSIMILATE-SCRATCH-Lab/">Scratch Lab</a>, <a href="http://www.yoyotta.com/home.html" target="_blank">YoYotta</a>, <a href="http://www.colorfront.com/" target="_blank">ColorFront OSD</a>,  and many more. For the purposes of this demo though, I’ll focus on some  inexpensive (or free) utilities that can tackle the problem.</p>
<p>We’ll start with Final Cut Pro 7 &amp; X, but here are a couple quick links to jump down to different sections – <a href="http://blog.abelcine.com/2012/06/21/applying-luts-to-log-footage-in-fcp-premiere-avid-and-resolve/#Adobe">Adobe Premiere</a>, <a href="http://blog.abelcine.com/2012/06/21/applying-luts-to-log-footage-in-fcp-premiere-avid-and-resolve/#Avid">Avid Media Composer</a>, <a href="http://blog.abelcine.com/2012/06/21/applying-luts-to-log-footage-in-fcp-premiere-avid-and-resolve/#Resolve">DaVinci Resolve</a>.</p>
<p><em><strong>Final Cut Pro 7 &amp; X</strong></em></p>
<p>There are many different plugins available for Final Cut Pro that can  correct for Log footage. Below is an outline of the different available  options and how to use them. These FCP 7 plugins require that footage  be rendered after the plugin is applied, though some systems might be  able to keep up. At the bottom of this section I’ve outlined how to send  the corrected footage through Compressor for rendering.</p>
<p><strong>LUT Buddy – FCP 7</strong></p>
<p>The first option for applying LUTs in FCP 7 is a free plugin with a  funny name. It is a simple plugin that allows you to add a LUT to a  clip. Download <a href="http://www.redgiantsoftware.com/products/all/magic-bullet-lut-buddy/" target="_blank">LUT Buddy</a> from Magic Bullet and install it. Here are the simple steps to apply in Final Cut Pro 7.</p>
<p>Add your Log clips to a sequence, and then locate the LUT Buddy  plugin in the Effects tab. LUT Buddy is stored in the Magic Bullet  Colorista folder.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18461" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18461"><img title="lutbuddy effects" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/lutbuddy-effects.png" alt="" width="318" height="165" /></a></p>
<p>Drag the plugin on top of your clip, and then double-click on the  clip to view it in the Viewer window. My clip is in Log; notice how flat  it is.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18460" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18460"><img title="LogOriginal" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/LogOriginal.png" alt="" width="504" height="315" /></a></p>
<p>Now click on the Filter tab to see the LUT Buddy settings.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18463" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18463"><img title="lutbuddy_panel" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/lutbuddy_panel.png" alt="" width="549" height="246" /></a></p>
<p>Click the Option button and another window will appear.</p>
<p>Click Import LUT. This will launch the file browser. Locate the  appropriate LUT and import away. Note: When using the AbelCine LUTs, I  have found that .MGA files seem to work the best with LUT Buddy (Pandora  LUTs).</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18462" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18462"><img title="lutbuddy_options" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/lutbuddy_options.png" alt="" width="550" height="289" /></a></p>
<p>Now the LUT should be applied, and you should see the results.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18459" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18459"><img title="LutAdded" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/LutAdded.png" alt="" width="504" height="315" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Antler Post – FCP 7</strong></p>
<p>Antler Post has put together several <a href="http://www.antlerpost.com/Store.html" target="_blank">inexpensive plugins</a> that can take S-Log, LogC, Canon Log and Red Film Log back to a  standard Rec709 look. The plugin also has the ability to add burn-ins  like timecode and reel name. This is a very handy plugin when using  Final Cut Pro to generate dailies.</p>
<p>The procedure for adding the plugin is the same as with LUT Buddy.  Drag your clip to the timeline, in this case I’ll use a Arri ALEXA clip.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18468" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18468"><img title="antler no lut" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/antler-no-lut.png" alt="" width="504" height="315" /></a></p>
<p>Now, locate your plugin. It’s under the Antler folder:</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18466" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18466"><img title="antlerplugin" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/antlerplugin.png" alt="" width="306" height="112" /></a></p>
<p>The other versions of the plugin (S-log, C-log, etc would appear here  as well). Drag the LUT to the timeline, and you should see a result  immediately. You do not need to load in the LUT; Antler has pre-built  LUTs included with some adjustments based on the format you are working  with.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18465" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18465"><img title="antlerpanel" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/antlerpanel.png" alt="" width="436" height="500" /></a></p>
<p>Notice above that I used the Arri ALEXA plugin and have the option of  selecting the ISO. The rest of the settings are dedicated to adjusting  the look of the burn-in information. You can add notes, timecode, reel  name etc. Here is an example of what it looks like:</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18469" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18469"><img title="antlerlut added" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/antlerlut-added.png" alt="" width="504" height="315" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Pomfort – FCP 7 &amp; X</strong></p>
<p>Pomfort has three different plugins that work in FCP 7 and X. They have one for <a href="http://pomfort.com/plugins/slog2video.html" target="_blank">S-Log</a> and another for <a href="http://pomfort.com/plugins/dslrlog2video.html" target="_blank">DSLRs</a>; these plugins provide limited adjustments. They also have one for the Arri ALEXA, which is very full-featured. The <a href="http://pomfort.com/plugins/alexalook2video.html" target="_blank">Alexa plugin</a> allows you to set parameters that match the camera’s own ‘Look’ settings – read below to see how that works.</p>
<p>First lets look at the S-log plugin in Final Cut 7. To add the plugin, first add your S-log clip to the sequence.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18479" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18479"><img title="PomfortNoLUT" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/PomfortNoLUT.png" alt="" width="504" height="315" /></a></p>
<p>Now, find the plugin under the Pomfort folder in the effects tab. Drag on your clip and you should see the result right away.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18482" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18482"><img title="pomforteffects" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/pomforteffects1.png" alt="" width="358" height="109" /></a></p>
<p>The plugin adds a built-in LUT and allows you to ‘Mix’ the effect against the original image.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18480" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18480"><img title="pomfortpanel" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/pomfortpanel.png" alt="" width="546" height="116" /></a></p>
<p>The DSLR plugin works in the same way but with a different LUT. Check out the result:</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18478" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18478"><img title="PomfortLUT" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/PomfortLUT.png" alt="" width="504" height="315" /></a></p>
<p>Now let’s look at the Arri ALEXA plugin, but this time in <strong><em>Final Cut X. </em></strong></p>
<p>First drag your clip to the sequence, I’ll start with an Arri ALEXA Log C file.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18488" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18488"><img title="PomfortXNoLUT" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/PomfortXNoLUT.png" alt="" width="598" height="294" /></a></p>
<p>Now go to the effects browser on the right. Locate Pomfort under the  full list of effects, and drag out the Alexa Look2Video file.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18486" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18486"><img title="PomfortEffects" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/PomfortEffects.png" alt="" width="364" height="263" /></a></p>
<p>Now visit the effects panel in the upper right. As you can see it has  many more adjustments. All of these settings are designed to match the  settings that can be dialed into the camera’s Looks (scene files), so  you can match the setting in post that you saw on set.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18487" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18487"><img title="PomfortPanel" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/PomfortPanel.png" alt="" width="375" height="399" /></a></p>
<p>Here is the result of the plugin:</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18489" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18489"><img title="PomfortXwithLUT" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/PomfortXwithLUT.png" alt="" width="559" height="281" /></a></p>
<p>Note that these same adjustments will be available in FCP 7. When importing footage from Pomfort’s <a href="http://pomfort.com/silverstack/setedition.html" target="_blank">Silverstack SET</a> program, these plugins are applied automatically, and Alexa Looks will  be carried from the camera right into FCP. Pretty amazing.</p>
<p><strong>Levels &amp; Curves – FCP 7 &amp; X<br />
</strong><a href="http://nattress.com/?q=LevelsCurves" target="_blank">Levels &amp; Curves</a> is a unique plugin from Graeme Nattress that allows you to make easy  adjustments to your video curves. This plugin allows you to push and  pull your low end, midtown, knee and highlights in a nice graphical way.  There are Log to Video presets in the ‘Curves’ plugin, which can easily  get your footage looking good, and still have room for adjustment.</p>
<p>To apply the plugin, do the same steps that we saw above in Final Cut  X. Drag your clip to the timeline and find Levels and Curves under the  Nattress Levels &amp; Curves folder in the Effects tab. Use the Curves  plugin to start with.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18500" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18500"><img title="levelcurves_effect" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/levelcurves_effect.png" alt="" width="361" height="216" /></a></p>
<p>Drag on the clip and you should see a graph appear across your image.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18626" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18626"><img title="fcpxnolut" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/fcpxnolut.png" alt="" width="518" height="218" /></a></p>
<p>Select your clip on the timeline and visit the effects panel on the  upper right of your screen.Here you can select the “Log to Video Then  Curves” option from the Log mode. Below that you can select different  log options.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18625" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18625"><img title="fcpxlogtovideo_effects" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/fcpxlogtovideo_effects.png" alt="" width="301" height="219" /></a></p>
<p>Beyond that you can make adjustments to the  curves, bringing down your highlights, midtowns, and toe. With some  quick adjustments you can see how easy it is to get the image looking  good.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18628" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18628"><img title="fcpxlutapplied" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/fcpxlutapplied.png" alt="" width="518" height="218" /></a></p>
<p><strong><em>Notes on Rendering</em></strong></p>
<p>As I mentioned at the beginning of this section, many of these  plugins will require you to render your footage after the plugin is  applied. In FCP X, you can turn on “Create Proxy Material” in the  Preferences window, and it will start rendering the footage for you  behind the scenes. In FCP 7, you will have to choose to render out the  material for editing. Many people actually use FCP 7 as a dailies  generation tool after applying a LUT. Here are a couple quick steps to  do this:</p>
<p>1. Apply your plugin LUT on the clips in your sequence. Any of the plugins mentioned above should work.<br />
2. Drag your clips from the sequence back into the Bin. This will create a new clip in your Bin.<br />
3. From the File menu choose to Send To -&gt; Compressor.<br />
4.  Compressor will open, and now you can render the clips out with the  plugin applied. The timecode, audio and file names should all travel  properly.</p>
<p><strong><a name="Adobe"></a><em>Adobe Premiere</em></strong></p>
<p>As of today, I’m only aware of one plugin to apply LUTs in Adobe  Premiere, but I’m sure there will be more released as the software gains  popularity.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.redgiantsoftware.com/products/all/magic-bullet-lut-buddy/" target="_blank">LUT Buddy</a></strong> &#8211;  Just like in Final Cut Pro, the LUT Buddy plugin can be used in  Premiere to apply a LUT. The plugin can be applied using these simple  steps.</p>
<p>Add your Log clips to a sequence; once again I added this Alexa Log C clip.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18504" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18504"><img title="LutBuddyP_nolut" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/LutBuddyP_nolut.png" alt="" width="566" height="314" /></a></p>
<p>Now locate the LUT Buddy plugin in the Effects tab on the bottom left  of the screen. LUT Buddy is stored in the Magic Bullet Colorista  folder.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18507" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18507"><img title="lutbuddy_premiere_effect" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/lutbuddy_premiere_effect1.png" alt="" width="392" height="145" /></a></p>
<p>Drag the plugin on top of your clip, and then click on the clip to  view it in the Effects Control panel. LUT Buddy should appear below the  standard motion and opacity effects. Click the small Setup button on the  right and another window will appear.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18506" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18506"><img title="lutbuddy_Premiere_panel" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/lutbuddy_Premiere_panel1.png" alt="" width="544" height="180" /></a></p>
<p>Now click Import LUT. This will launch the file browser. Locate the  appropriate LUT and import away. Note: When using the AbelCine LUTs, I  have found that .MGA files seem to work the best with LUT Buddy (Pandora  LUTs).</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18462" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18462"><img title="lutbuddy_options" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/lutbuddy_options.png" alt="" width="550" height="289" /></a></p>
<p>Now the LUT should be applied, and you should see the results.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18502" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18502"><img title="lutbudd-p-lut" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/lutbudd-p-lut.png" alt="" width="645" height="362" /></a></p>
<p><a name="Avid"></a><em><strong>Avid Media Composer</strong></em></p>
<p>Unlike Premiere and FCP, there isn’t an easy way to apply a LUT in  Avid. This could change in the future, but for now we have a couple of  different options.</p>
<p><strong>Correction Layer</strong> – One way to work with Log material  in Avid MC is to apply a color adjustment layer across your entire  sequence. This layer can be adjusted and anything underneath it will  appear correct. This may seem like a simple solution. It is quick and  does not require any rendering. The only annoyance is always having a  top layer above your edit. Here are the quick steps to apply this  layer.</p>
<p>Open up a new Sequence and import some Log footage. I again started  with Arri ALEXA footage, but this will work with any log material.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18514" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18514"><img title="avid no lut" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/avid-no-lut.png" alt="" width="666" height="374" /></a></p>
<p>In your sequence, create a second video layer – this will be your  adjustment layer. Do that by hitting Command+Y on a Mac or by visiting  the Clip menu.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18513" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18513"><img title="avidnew layer" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/avidnew-layer.png" alt="" width="245" height="151" /></a></p>
<p>Now you need to change your video output by clicking on the V1  output, holding down, and dragging to the V2 track. A little arrow  should appear as you do this. The V1 output should then appear next to  your second video track.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18601" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18601"><img title="aviddrag" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/aviddrag.jpg" alt="" width="342" height="197" /></a></p>
<p>Now you are ready to start adjusting color, so open up your Color  Correction workspace (under Window in MC 6) to get started. There are  many adjustments you can make here but I stick with a simple curve  adjustment and increased saturation. There is no perfect adjustment  here, just something that gets things looking OK.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18515" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18515"><img title="avid color" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/avid-color1.png" alt="" width="618" height="143" /></a></p>
<p>Once you make an adjustment here, you’ll notice that your second  video track fills up with Filler. Now anything below that track will be  effected by your color correction. Notice that no rendering is required,  just keep editing below that track, and you are in good shape. With a  some quick adjustments, you can see how the log footage is looking quite  a bit more ‘normal.’</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18511" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18511"><img title="avid lut" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/avid-lut.png" alt="" width="607" height="340" /></a></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.lightillusion.com/alexicc.html" target="_blank">AlexICC</a></strong> &#8211;  AlexICC is a cool little program from Light Illusions that can quickly  convert Alexa Log material into MXFs compatible with Avid. The program  can take Alexa MOV files and export various formats ranging from DNxHD  to ProRes and H.264. It can be used with FCP or just to render out low  resolution files. AlexICC can burn in a Rec709 LUT and timecode, making  it a nice quick dailies tool. I put it under the Avid banner because of  its ability to make DNxHD files in MXF. Here is a quick overview of how  it works.</p>
<p>There are two versions of AlexICC you can download, version 4 and  version 7. This version number refers to the number of conversions it  does at once; a laptop should probably do no more than four at once.  When you open AlexICC you have to select a folder where your Log C  material is kept and a destination to send it to.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18517" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18517"><img title="alexicc start" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/alexicc-start.png" alt="" width="567" height="164" /></a></p>
<p>When you click OK, another dialog will pop up giving you more options.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18516" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18516"><img title="alexaiccsettings" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/alexaiccsettings.png" alt="" width="353" height="461" /></a></p>
<p>Here you can select two different files to convert your original  content to and the drop-downs contain different presets. I have chosen a  DNxHD 36 Mbps format and a small H.264 format, and they both have burn  in timecode (hence the check BITC). When you hit OK, AlexICC will launch  many terminal windows. Don’t panic, this is how it works. It will speed  through the conversion and you’ll have yourself some nice looking  footage.</p>
<p><a name="Resolve"></a><em><strong>DaVinci Resolve Lite</strong></em></p>
<p><a href="http://www.blackmagic-design.com/support/detail/?os=mac&amp;sid=3948&amp;pid=11735&amp;leg=false" target="_blank">DaVinci Resolve Lite</a> is the free version of Resolve from Blackmagic Design. It has many of  the same features as the full licensed version and it’s free, so try it  out today. The process for loading external LUTs into Resolve can be  quite tricky, at least in the current version. The files have to go into  a specific folder on a Mac to get them loaded. Here are a couple of  steps to loading a LUT into Resolve and then applying it.</p>
<p>First, before even launching Resolve, we need to bring any LUTs we  want to use into Resolve’s LUT folder. The folder is located deep in the  file system. You can find it using this path: Macintosh HD -&gt;  Library -&gt; Application Support -&gt; Blackmagic Design -&gt; Davinci  Resolve -&gt; LUT -&gt; ARRI</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18521" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18521"><img title="resolvepath" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/resolvepath.jpg" alt="" width="527" height="151" /></a></p>
<p>Now you are probably wondering why the Arri Folder – it just seems to  work here, and we aren’t sure why. You can put various 3D LUT formats  in there, I stick with ones made in the Resolve format. After that,  launch Resolve and visit the LUTs tab on the top right. Here we can  select a LUT to apply to my entire project, either on input, output or  to the display. You should find the LUT  you added earlier in this list  now.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18520" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18520"><img title="resolvelut list" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/resolvelut-list.png" alt="" width="370" height="251" /></a></p>
<p>This is a very quick way to get all of your material addressed with  one LUT, but I prefer to add LUTs manually to each clip. To do that go  ahead and start a new project or enter an existing one. Bring in your  material and visit the Color tab where you do your grading. Each clip  will have a single node associated with it, which can be found in the  upper right.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18518" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18518"><img title="resolvenolut" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/resolvenolut.png" alt="" width="364" height="235" /></a></p>
<p>In Resolve, you can add more nodes to do different corrections. You  can add a LUT to one of these nodes by right-clicking on it, and  navigating down to 3D LUTs. This should list the LUT that you added  before.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-18522" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?attachment_id=18522"><img title="resolve add lut" src="http://blog.abelcine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/resolve-add-lut.png" alt="" width="474" height="228" /></a></p>
<p>Select your LUT and you should see the result right away. Resolve is a  complicated program, and I’ve obviously skipped some steps here, but  there is a lot of great information on the internet about how to use it.  Check out the <a href="http://www.arri.de/?eID=registration&amp;file_uid=7771" target="_blank">Arri workflow document</a> on working with Resolve; it outlines these steps in more detail, as  well as how to bring the material in and out of an NLE. You can use  these steps with any log material and the right LUT. Resolve Version 9,  coming this Summer, promises to have much easier methods for importing  and exporting both 1D and 3D LUTs. You can purchase the full version of <a href="http://www.blackmagic-design.com/products/davinciresolve/models/" target="_blank">DaVinci Resolve 8</a> from AbelCine.</p>
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		<title>NanoFlash CF card Speed test</title>
		<link>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/nanoflsh-cf-card-speed-test/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/nanoflsh-cf-card-speed-test/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jul 2012 11:35:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Technical]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?p=3268</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Compact Flash (CF) card speed test on NanoFlash This is a quick and worthy test to do with your Nano CF cards. We use and recommend using cards much faster...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><span id="more-3268"></span>Compact Flash (CF) card speed test on NanoFlash</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>This is a quick and worthy test to do with your Nano CF cards.</li>
<li>We use and recommend using cards much faster than your requirements.It&#8217;s always worthwhile having some juice left in the tank.</li>
<li>Instruction PDF attached.<strong><a rel="attachment wp-att-1583" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/links-charts-information/software-linksdownloads/attachment/nano/"> CF Card speed test-NanoFlash</a></strong></li>
</ul>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong>COMPACT FLASH CARD SPEED TEST ON NANOFLASH</strong><br />
We have a CompactFlash Card Speed Test built into the nanoFlash.<br />
This is in version 1.6.248, and every version since 1.6.226.<br />
This is very easy to use:<br />
1. Set up System|Trigger to &#8220;Record Button&#8221;<br />
2. Set up Video|Bit Rate and Codec to the speed and codec you wish to use for the test.<br />
3. Insert the card, then format it in the nanoFlash.<br />
4. Supply a video signal to the nanoFlash, HD-SDI or HDMI.<br />
5. To start the test:<br />
a. Press and Hold the Left Arrow Button.<br />
b. Press the Record Button.<br />
c. Release both buttons.<br />
The nanoFlash will start to record, and it will display a new line of info near the top of the<br />
screen.<br />
On the left will be 0%, on the right will be 100%<br />
There will be, starting out, a very thin sliver, near the 0%.<br />
As recording progresses, this sliver will get wider at times, turning into a bar like a<br />
progress bar.<br />
With a card that is fast enough, the wider bar will go back to the sliver (it will get very thin<br />
again).<br />
If a card that is marginal, the bar may get quite wide, but not reach the 100% level before<br />
the card is full.<br />
If the card is too slow, the bar will go all of the way to 100% before the card is full.<br />
This feature allows one to see, the relative amount of data that we have in our First-In,<br />
First-Out Buffer.<br />
If this buffer does not get to 100%, before the card is full, then the card is usable at that<br />
bit-rate.<br />
Ideally, the card should be even faster, so that the First-In, First Out Buffer is almost<br />
empty most of the time. This indicates that the card is fast enough, and has an extra margin<br />
of speed.<br />
Regretfully, there are a lot of counterfeit cards, especially SanDisk cards and a few other<br />
brands have been counterfeited, but this is very rare.<br />
We always recommend purchasing your CompactFlash cards from reputable<br />
sources….LIKE THE CHAPS AT CAMERAWORKS.. <br />
This test will allow you to test if your cards are up to speed or not, for any given bit-rate.<br />
In general, we do recommend that you stay within the guidelines that we have established<br />
for various cards that we have qualified. Here is a link to our Media page:<br />
Media for nanoFlash | Convergent Design</p>
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		<title>XDcam Browser Software Download</title>
		<link>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/xdcam-browser-software-download/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/xdcam-browser-software-download/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jul 2012 11:27:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Technical]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?p=3260</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[If you are dealing with Sony EX1 , EX3 or F3 footage you will need this FREE software. Sony XDcam clip browser software , info , etc download link: http://pro.sony.com/bbsc/ssr/micro-xdcam/resource.downloads.bbsccms-assets-micro-xdcam-downloads-XDCAMSoftwareDownload.shtml#apps]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><span id="more-3260"></span>If you are dealing with Sony EX1 , EX3 or F3 footage you will need this FREE software.</strong></p>
<p><strong>Sony XDcam clip browser software</strong> , info , etc download link:</p>
<p style="color: #ff3300;"><strong><a href="http://pro.sony.com/bbsc/ssr/micro-xdcam/resource.downloads.bbsccms-assets-micro-xdcam-downloads-XDCAMSoftwareDownload.shtml#apps">http://pro.sony.com/bbsc/ssr/micro-xdcam/resource.downloads.bbsccms-assets-micro-xdcam-downloads-XDCAMSoftwareDownload.shtml#apps</a></strong></p>
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		<title>Raw, Log, Uncompressed! What?</title>
		<link>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/raw-log-uncompressed-what/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/raw-log-uncompressed-what/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jul 2012 11:17:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Technical]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?p=3254</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A clear and brief article from the wonderful folk at Ablecine explaining Raw, Log and Uncompressed images. Link:  http://resources.abelcine.com/2012/05/17/raw-log-and-uncompressed-explained/ Raw, Log and Uncompressed Explained By Andy Shipsides, Thursday, 17 May...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span id="more-3254"></span>A clear and brief article from the wonderful folk at Ablecine explaining Raw, Log and Uncompressed images.</p>
<p style="color: #ff0000;">Link:  <strong><a href="http://resources.abelcine.com/2012/05/17/raw-log-and-uncompressed-explained/">http://resources.abelcine.com/2012/05/17/raw-log-and-uncompressed-explained/</a></strong></p>
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<p>Raw, Log and Uncompressed Explained<br />
By Andy Shipsides,                   Thursday, 17 May 2012</p>
<p>At AbelCine, we offer a class on  video formats that covers a variety of different terms and compression  formats. One of the more common questions I’m asked is, “What’s the  difference between uncompressed video, Raw and Log recording?” With so  many cameras these days offering different recording options, combined  with the popularity of external recorders, it’s no wonder there are a  lot of questions about this topic.</p>
<p>Recently, I was asked if shooting Log was  like shooting Raw. A short answer is, “Well, yes and no,” which I know  isn’t terribly clear. Raw recording is very different than Log, but they  have similar applications. To really answer the question, and to  understand the difference between all of these formats, we need a little  bit of background. <a href="http://www.abelcine.com/store/ARRI-ALEXA-Starter-Kit/">ARRI’s ALEXA</a> camera is unique in that it can output Raw, uncompressed and record in a  Log format, so I’ll use that camera as an example throughout this  discussion. Let’s start with Raw, which comes first for many reasons.</p>
<p><strong>Raw Like Sushi</strong></p>
<p>The idea of Raw recording for motion pictures wasn’t popular until the release of the <a href="http://www.abelcine.com/store/RED-One-Mysterium-X/">RED ONE</a> camera a few years ago. RED brought the idea of Raw recording to the  masses, though they weren’t the first. Both ARRI and DALSA had cameras  that could output Raw sensor data. Raw recorders weren’t exactly common  on-set gear though, so we have to hand it to RED for getting the Raw  party started in the motion picture business.</p>
<p>So what is Raw anyway? Simply put, it’s just sensor data before any  image processing. In a single-sensor camera, like the ALEXA, color is  produced by filtering each photosite (or pixel) to produce either red,  green or blue values. The color pattern of the photosites most often  used is the Bayer pattern, invented by Dr. Bryce E. Bayer at Kodak. The  Raw data in a camera like this represents the value of each photosite.  Because each pixel contains only one color value, Raw isn’t viewable on a  monitor in any discernible way. In a video signal that we can see on a  monitor, each pixel contains full color and brightness information;  video can tell each pixel on a monitor how bright to be and what color.  This means that Raw isn’t video. Raw has to be converted to video for  viewing and use. This is usually done through a de-Bayer process, which  determines both color and brightness for each finished pixel in your  image. The converting of Raw information into video can be  time-consuming for post-production, though great tools are available to  make it fairly painless. The upside to Raw recording is that no typical  video processing has been baked in. The sensor outputs exactly what it  sees—no white balance, ISO or other color adjustments are there. This,  along with a high bit rate, allows for a huge amount of adjustment in  post.</p>
<p>Every camera has a “Raw” step in the image-capturing process. The  sensor information is always gathered before converting to a video  output, but not all cameras let you record or output that data. The  cameras from RED record exclusively Raw data. Sony’s new F65 can record  in Raw or HD video, and the ARRI ALEXA can output Raw data over an SDI  connection, while recording video internally at the same time. These  cameras are converting the Raw data into video for monitoring; the ALEXA  adds the ability to output the Raw data at the same time.</p>
<p>So if the Raw data is the real information coming off the sensor,  does that mean that it’s uncompressed? This is where things get a bit  trickier.</p>
<p><strong>How Uncompressed is it?</strong></p>
<p>Raw data isn’t necessarily uncompressed. In fact, it’s usually  compressed. The RED cameras shoot in REDCODE, which has compression  options from 3:1 to 18:1. Likewise, <a href="http://www.abelcine.com/store/Sony-F65PACS-CineAlta/">Sony’s F65</a> has 3:1 and 6:1 compression options in F65RAW mode. The Raw data is  compressed in much the same ways that traditional video is compressed,  and the process does have some effect on image quality. How it shows up  in the finished video output can be hard to detect, and the less  compressed options in both of these cameras are often considered fairly  lossless (limited quality loss). On the other hand, ALEXA outputs  uncompressed Raw data, which can be recorded externally. This would be  the closest thing to a true uncompressed signal.</p>
<p>So what about uncompressed video? The term “uncompressed” obviously  implies a lack of compression, but it isn’t exactly clear what this  means in terms of video. As we said before, video is derived from Raw  data off a masked single sensor, or something like a 3-CCD imaging  block, and usually something is lost along the way. Raw data is usually  at high bit depth, between 12- and 16-bit, but video is usually around  8- or 10-bit. In RGB (4:4:4) video, each pixel contains color and  brightness information, which would be rather large with 16-bit depth.  So, video is generally reduced in bit depth. Additionally, color  information is generally reduced as well, from 4:4:4 to 4:2:2. These are  both forms of compression that happen in the camera, even before  recording. A standard for HD-SDI output on a professional camera is  considered to be uncompressed; however, the specification for a single  HD-SDI output in a 1920×1080 resolution is 10-bit 4:2:2. Is HD-SDI not  uncompressed then? Well, it’s still uncompressed in the sense that there  has been no block, wavelet or temporal-based compression applied.  Therefore, we can call it uncompressed 10-bit 4:2:2 video—sounds better  than color and bit subsampled video, doesn’t it?</p>
<p>The ALEXA can output uncompressed video over its HD-SDI outputs,  either in 10-bit 4:2:2 (over Single-Link HD-SDI) or 10-bit 4:4:4 (over  Dual-Link HD-SDI). Oddly enough, the camera can record in 12-bit 4:4:4  ProRes internally, but a standard HD-SDI only supports 10-bit. In this  case, the uncompressed output is more limited in bit depth because ARRI  is conforming to the standards of the signal.</p>
<p>But if Raw is Raw and video is video, then what the heck is Log recording?</p>
<div id="attachment_4652"><img title="raw-log-rec709" src="http://resources.abelcine.com/files/2012/05/raw-log-rec709.jpg" alt="" width="580" height="321" />Examples of Raw, Log and Rec. 709 video formats.&nbsp;</p>
</div>
<p><strong>Bump on a Log</strong></p>
<p>The new Sony, Canon and ARRI cameras all have a Log recording mode.  When the Log modes are activated, the image becomes flat and  desaturated, but you can still see it on a monitor. This should clue you  in that Log recording is just standard video recording in the sense  that all pixels display color and brightness information. Log isn’t Raw;  it’s video. However, it’s a special way of capturing that maximizes the  tonal range of a sensor.</p>
<p>The idea of Log recording came about with Kodak’s Cineon system for  scanning film. The system scanned film into a Log format that  corresponded to the density of the original film. This maximized the  information from the film that could be stored in the video format.  Because this information has many shades of gray—very low contrast—it  needs to be corrected for proper viewing on a monitor.</p>
<p>Sony, Canon and ARRI have all taken the idea of Log film scanning and  applied it to their sensors. They map a “Log” gamma curve that pulls  the most information off of their sensors. Sony calls their map S-Log,  Canon’s is Canon Log, and ARRI’s is LogC. Each is designed for a  specific camera, but all have a similar result. Because Log is a video  image, manipulations like white balance and ISO are baked in. A  transform of this video data, known as a lookup table (LUT), is required  for proper viewing, which makes the video look more “normal” to us. A  standard LUT converts the Log video to standard (Rec. 709) HD video.</p>
<p>The ALEXA converts its Raw data into LogC video; this information can  be recorded or sent out over HD-SDI. A LUT can be applied for viewing  and also can be recorded if desired. Because of this, any step in the  chain—Raw, LogC video or standard video—can be recorded.</p>
<p><strong>Putting it all Together</strong></p>
<p>So, going back to our original question, “Is shooting Log like  shooting Raw?” The answer is still “yes and no.” Hopefully, now you can  see why. Raw is not Log because Log is in a video format, and Raw is not  video. Raw data has no video processing baked in and has to be  converted into video for viewing. Log is video and has things like white  balance baked into it. They’re very much not the same; however, they’re  both designed to get the most information out of the sensor. Raw is  getting everything the sensor has to offer; likewise, Log curves are  designed to get the most tonal range out of the sensor. While they’re  very different formats, they have the same general application. Both Raw  and Log can be uncompressed, but that depends on the recording device.  These terms, and many others, have all become part of our vocabulary in  this digital cinema world. Hopefully, this article has helped you  navigate them just a little bit better.</p>
<p>___</p>
<p>This resource is based on an <a href="http://www.hdvideopro.com/technique/miscellaneous-technique/help-desk-formats-explained.html" target="_blank">article</a> written by Andy Shipsides for <a href="http://www.hdvideopro.com/" target="_blank">HDVideoPro</a> Magazine. To learn more about topics such as video formats, check out our <em>Understanding HD Series</em> offered by AbelCine’s <a href="http://training.abelcine.com/">Training Department</a>.</td>
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		<title>Digital Sensors Size Comparison</title>
		<link>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/digital-sensors-size-comparison/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/digital-sensors-size-comparison/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Jan 2012 11:42:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Technical]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?p=2561</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[&#160; &#160;]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-2564" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/digital-sensors-size-comparison/attachment/35mm-digital-sensors/"><img class="alignnone size-large wp-image-2564" title="35mm Digital Sensors" src="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/35mm-Digital-Sensors-Chart_Liz08172010_1125px-731x1024.jpg" alt="" width="620" height="868" /></a></p>
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<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-2565" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/digital-sensors-size-comparison/attachment/dslr-sensor-sizes/"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2565" title="DSLR-Sensor-Sizes" src="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/DSLR-Sensor-Sizes.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="297" /></a></p>
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		<title>Bitrate/Recording duration chart</title>
		<link>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/software-linksdownloads/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/software-linksdownloads/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Sep 2011 11:10:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Technical]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/?p=1565</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Bit Rate / Recording Duration Chart check your memory card capacity with data rate = recording time &#160; &#160; &#160;]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><span id="more-1565"></span>Bit Rate / Recording Duration Chart</strong></p>
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<li>check your memory card capacity with data rate = recording time</li>
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<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-1575" href="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/technical-charts-links-info/software-linksdownloads/attachment/convergent_cf_chart/"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1575" title="Convergent_CF_Chart" src="http://www.cameraworks.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Convergent_CF_Chart-300x181.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="181" /></a></p>
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